Susan Khalje "The Classic French Jacket" Day 2

Day 2:  Show and Tell fabric combinations, trim and lining, fitting the muslin without sleeves

 Show and Tell!  Here are some of the classmates fabric, and trim combinations.  Beyond  beautiful, and very dangerous as it makes you want to make all of these jackets!  

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                           

I love this picture of Susan as she goes through each selection with beautiful Joanne!

This is the Vogue pattern we used.  A very good Basic and I would highly recommend it.

Then onto our first series of fittings:  

Adjusted my hem in the back.

 I had adjustments at the shoulder.  Susan worked on my left side, for a symmetrical fit.  

 I had adjustments made to my side back piece.  See the difference from the right side.

 Again, came back to the shoulders to adjust.  I have broad shoulders so this is an adjustment that is common for me.

  Raised my neckline as well. 

 Tada!

 I just wanted to show the time and work Susan puts into each and every fitting.  This fitting was unique to my body type, every class member was fit according to her body type.  Susan has an amazing gift with fitting and is so patient, note her concentration.

I then transferred my adjustments to my muslin and cut the seam allowances off my muslin.  Note we did not deal with the sleeves yet.  This was our Chanel type Vest.

Cut the fashion fabric out minus the sleeves.  Laid out the muslin templates on the fashion fabric.  Checked the crosswise grain as well, (see my T square) to be sure that it’s exactly perpendicular to the lengthwise grain.  Lengthwise and crosswise grains can shift so need to take care.  I cut my pieces out with Large seam allowances. This is really important and helps if you mess up says the voice of reason here. 

I pinned on all of my pattern pieces while matching my plaid.  I basically made certain that the bottom seam lines hit the plaid at the same place.  I also used a L-Square ruler to make certain I was even with my plaid on each side.  A T-Square ruler would work great for this as well. 

  

 My generous cut out and then thread traced.  I used a Japanese basting thread from Shibori Dragon, was great but hard to see on this fabric.  I am going to order some others colors as I think pink would have shown up better.  I ended up doubling up some turquoise thread I just happen to have.

Susan did an outstanding job of this fitting.  It was worth the entire class for that alone.  More good news around the corner.....