I have neglected my blog but wanted to give this portion some thought. The fitting process for my shoulder area is not for the faint at heart, and I am forever grateful for Susan's patience and skill.
Many years ago (more like 15) I was fortunate to have a class with Elizabeth Liechty and Della Pottberg, authors of one of the best fitting books I know of. The book deals with a flat pattern approach to fitting issues and is very good with lots of pictures. I had my measurements taken and found out that my right shoulder rolls forward. Yes, I was not very organized back then but at least I have kept the original measurements stuck in the back of the book.
To simplify this a bit, the measurement from my Center Back to left shoulder tip (boney knob at the shoulder) is approximately 1/2" longer on my right side. It may not sound like a lot but because of my shoulder rolling forward it creates a real fitting problem for me.
The above right shoulder measures 1/2" longer then the left shoulder.
To solve this problem I have to add to the Right Back Bodice at the shoulder tip 1/2" and add a small amount of ease along the armseye, as a rolling shoulder creates more width in the back shoulder area. The white areas show my adjustments.
Because the right shoulder rolls forward 1/2", the Center Front to right shoulder measures 1/2" shorter then the left shoulder.
To solve this problem I drop the seam 1/2" at the shoulder. I also have to scoop out the armseye a bit as I need to take up a bit of fabric to avoid gapping. Hopefully, you can see this in the picture.
This is my cheat sheet of changes I make with illustrations.
I may do a tutorial on this for more clarification but hopefully this is helpful.
On day three I made my shoulder adjustments stitched the bodice seams to the organza underling. Worked on the neckline clipping around the neck edge and catching only the organza.
Check sleeve widths. Since the sleeves were dropped sleeves I didn't need to make any further adjustments. Hand baste sleeve in, sew sleeve seam. Pin bodice to skirt. Sew skirt side seams. Sew back darts. Evening Homework: Transfer changes from the garment onto my muslin. Trace changed muslin on lining with white tracing paper. This is important as the tracing paper I use does not come out really well.
