Thursday, June 12, 2014

Susan Khalje "The Classic French Jacket" Day 3

Day 3:  Thread tracing and reinforcing the shoulder area, quilting, and tying off

Continued to Baste organza on Side Fronts, Side Backs and various areas for reinforcement.


We then placed our fabric pieces, matching grainlines on top of the Wrong Side of the lining.  See the photo of Karen below which shows that step more clearly. 


Continued to outline with thread and reinforce various areas with the silk organza.  There really is no interfacing used in this jacket.  This allows for a wonderful fit.   


We had to be careful that the grain of the silk organza and the grain of the jacket fabric were both on grain.  You can sort of see that in this picture.


I like this picture as Karen's fabric and contrast shows very well in pictures. We worked from the bottom upward.  Once every piece was thread basted




we then set up to machine quilt our fabric and lining together.  Check out Karens blog:  fiftydresses.com  

We set up our sewing machines to quilt our fabric and lining pieces together.  I finally was able to use my walking foot for my Bernina, which I admit before this time I rarely used.  The Walking foot keeps the slippery lining and more stable fashion fabric from shifting.  I used a longer stitch length (word to the wise if you have to take anything out this will save your sanity!)

I quilted vertical lines following the white vertical threads in my fabric.  Again, showing why it is important to purchase good fabric that stays on grain. Another shout out to Mendel Goldberg Fabrics, NYC!   Need to be careful and leave an appropriate distance between quilting and seams as we now spent the rest of the day and evening tying off threads.  Tedious but well worth it.

I then basted the jacket together along the seam lines, beginning and ending at the edges of the fabric.  Here is the inside of my jacket laid out flat, remember we have not dealt with sleeves yet.  


Here is a picture of the outside of my jacket at this stage.  



The best is yet to come! 






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