Sunday, March 1, 2015

The Couture School Day 5

I'm back!  Sleeves on this dress were pretty simple.



I had cut a bias band my finished width doubled (front and underside) plus seam allowances.  I cut my bias 4" wide on the true bias, 45 degree angle.

I basted the bottom of my bias strip to the bottom edge of my sleeve leaving a 1 1/2" join seam.

Joined the bias band carefully stitching it by hand, machine sew the band on the bottom of the sleeve and press up.

This band adds a nice weight to the sleeve.


The shoulder is actually a drop shoulder.  So basted the sleeve in and machine sew. 


For my hem I used this wide bias tape.  Found this at Joann's and pressed leaving one side with a fold.  I then pinned this strip to my hem line on the dress in the fold.  Machine stitch and press up my hem.  Because this dress skirt was pegged doing the hem this way allowed for a nice smooth surface.  The only draw back is I will never be able to change the hem length.  

My zipper was put in by hand.  Pick stitch starting on the top right side, down then up the left side.



Finally, the lining needs to have all the changes from the original garment.  I worked on the bodice first making certain it was smooth, then added the sleeves.  Put the skirt on and fell stitched the lining along the zipper.


Added this little kick pleat in the back.

Fini!





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